Rob takes me to the pig pen he’s
built in the backyard of his parents’ suburban home. He kneels
to scratch the belly of one of his new purchases, a little
black and white Hampshire he calls Nickleback, after a favorite rock
band. Nickleback’s
companion, a bright bubble-gum pink little crossbreed
he calls Red Hot Chili Pepper, doesn’t want to be touched.
“She’s sunburned,” Rob explains. “They had
never been outside until last week when I brought them home from the
breeder’s. They were born in a barn.”
Pigs, like people, get sunburned. Normally, pigs in open fields, or
in the wild for that matter, will roll in mud to stay cool (pig’s
don’t sweat) and to protect their skin from sunburn. But the yard
Rob has built for his pigs is eight-inches deep in clean, soft bark
shavings from the feed-and-seed store. Except for a kiss of mud on their
blunt little noses, Rob’s pigs are perfectly clean.
“A few years ago I had pigs over there,” he gestures toward
a flowerbed exploding with daffodils and peonies. “They
got whipworms, and I had to give them worm medicine three times a day
for two weeks straight to get rid of them.” Whipworms, Rob further
explains, cause diarrhea in pigs, which can be dangerous to the pig’s
health and slows their weight gain. And whipworms can last in the soil
for up to eleven years. So, Rob built a new shelter for his pigs and
gave over the old site, tilled and ready for flowers, to his mom, Maggie. “But
I don’t want these guys digging too deep into the dirt here, because
there might be whipworms here, too.”
Maggie Taylor, an Extension agent at Oregon State University, joins
us at the pigpen fence, where the little round porkers run over to greet
her. “Rob, that pig needs a mud bath,” she says, reaching
down toward the bright pink one.
“I’ll get her sunscreen,” Rob says.
Rob uses sunscreen for people on his pigs, SPF 36, the same stuff he
rubs on his own freckled pale skin. Rob was not raised in a barn, but
his redhead’s complexion makes him sensitive to sunburn, just
like his pigs.
Human sunscreen and a fastidious pigpen are not the only luxuries he
provides his two swine projects. “I feed them ShowFeed; it’s
a high quality, high protein mix and it costs $15 a bag. I never feed
them people food; it’s got too much fat and sugar.”
Efficient and profitable swine production depends on an understanding
of the influences of genetics, environment, health, and nutrition.
Feed represents 60 to 75 percent of the total cost of pork production.
From the 4-H Swine Handbook.
To fatten pigs, Rob explains, you feed them carbohydrate-rich foods
like corn. To slim them down, you feed protein and fiber-rich foods
like soy beans or oats. That is the theory behind the Atkins Diet, too.
Pigs, like people, have non-chambered stomachs. Unlike sheep, cattle,
and goats, swine don’t eat grass but prefer much the same food
as people do. This, and the pig’s stubborn resistance to trekking
long distances, delayed its domestication by millennia, until the development
of agriculture could ensure enough grain for both man and beast.
Once established, pig production spread throughout much of the world.
Although reviled in Middle Eastern cultures where religious beliefs
forbid owning or eating pigs, pork became a staple food in Europe. Christopher
Columbus took eight pigs with him on his second voyage to America. Hernando
de Soto landed in Florida with 13 pigs that quickly became barter for
peace with the native people. As American cities grew up in the 19th
century, free-roaming porkers served as garbage collectors, recyclers,
and on-the-hoof meat markets for working class city-dwellers. But rambunctious
feral pigs were eventually seen as a hazard, threatening children and
entangling traffic as cities grew more crowded. In 1860, New York
City banished pigs from its downtown streets. Other cities followed
suit until, by the turn of the 20th century, pigs were consigned to
the farm, and the vast majority of urban garbage was buried, burned,
or dumped at sea. Throughout their history, runaway pigs have moved
easily back to their wild ways, displaying stealth, ferocity, and an
ability to grub a meal from field, forest, or garbage dump. Today, feral
pigs are increasing in the southern half of the U.S., where they are
both big sport and a big nuisance.
Back on the farm, the hog industry has transformed itself
into big business. One company, Smithfield, controls 25 percent of all
the hogs in America. Most of these hogs are large, twice the size of their
Asian cousins, with big rounded hips (hams) or long bodies with lots of
belly meat (bacon). Back before World War II, most hogs in America were
raised for lard, with a high proportion of back fat. But when the American
diet switched from lard to vegetable fats, pigs went on a diet, too. The
pork industry bred pigs with higher reproductive rates, pigs that grew
faster and leaner with less feed, pigs that produced pork as lean as a
skinless chicken breast. Pork became “the other white meat,” and
according to a recent USDA report, pork produced today has 27 percent
less saturated fat than pork produced 15 years ago. |